Thursday, March 06, 2014

#tbt: Climbing Mt. Fuji

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I’ve decided to start honoring Throwback Thursday (#tbt) on this blog by publishing things that I’ve written earlier in my life.  I have always been an avid journal writer – but never with the intention of publicly sharing (so this could become interesting).    I will try to keep all original content as is, with the exception of changing names when necessary.  I also may provide some commentary.

For this first Thursday, I’m going to share an email I sent when I was living in Japan in 2000.   When I went to Japan, I had no idea what a “blog” was but I would have had one then in a heartbeat.  I used to write long stories to my friends and family on a regular basis to share my experiences.  Whether they wanted it or not, they got the email!  Fortunately, a couple of good friends printed all of these emails out and gave them back to me in an album when I returned home.  I’m forever grateful that I have these memories to keep.  And, now, without further ado I will share one with you…



Climbing Mt. Fuji

Written on Aug. 23, 2000

Hello!

Well, I did it!  I climbed Mt. Fuji! And how was it? Absolute torture!

So, here’s what happened:

First of all we didn’t start from the bottom.  We started from the middle (as do the majority of climbers).  And I didn’t quite make it to the top, I was about 420 meters short, but by the time I got there, I DID NOT CARE.

Let me tell you why…

We started at the 5th station which was 7,606 feet (over 1 mile) up and climbed 2350 feet at first.  Geez, I thought…less then 1 mile?  NO biggee…  IT TOOK US 3 and ½ HOURS.  It was very steep and in some places it was very rocky, we literally had to climb rocks up this mountain.  Not to mention the crowds!  I could not believe the amount of people!  They warned us ahead of time that we may not get to the top if we were bottlenecked by the crowds on the trail, and they weren’t kidding!  It was like standing in line for Disneyland!  Climb up one rock…wait…climb..wait… As the night wore on I felt like I was standing in line just to torture myself.  Oh, did you notice I said ‘night’?  Yep – we STARTED the climb at 6:30pm and spent most of it in the dark.  At 10pm we got to a mountain hut to “sleep”. 


Now, I’ve used the phrase “we were packed in like sardines” before, but this time, it is LITERAL.  It was one room with futons laid out end to end.  As soon as we got in it we were to hang up our bags on nails in the beams above and lay down, head to feet next to another person.  We laid on our back, crossed our arms over our stomachs and a Japanese man then PUSHED us into the next person so there was absolutely no gap.  Imagine lying next to the feet of two people who had been climbing for 3 hours.  Lovely thought, isn’t it?  I was next to Maja so at least there was a friend on one side, but still – I’ve smelled her feet on a good day in the apartment and never wanted to sleep with them! [No offense Maja]  Although, she and the other woman at my feet got the raw end of the deal since I’m taller.  My feet were in their faces, theirs were at my shoulders.  It was also really loud at this place, people came and went all through the night.  We slept (LAID) there for 1 and ½ hours and were awaken to continue walking.

I think this break did more harm than good, because I was in the mood to hike when we stopped to sleep but I was cranky when we started again.  So, we began again at 11:30pm.   Climb a rock..wait, climb… after the rocks it became a steep walk upwards on the switchback rail.  Maja and I fell behind the others, who were in better shape than us, and made our way up slowly.  Around 4:30am we were still walking upwards when the sky started to lighten.

Oh, before I continue, let me tell you the one thing I’m grateful for: the weather.  We were so lucky! Fuji is famous for rain and wind year-round, but we had none of that.  There were clear skies, and a bright moon.  It became freezing near the top but I had come prepared. 


Anyway… as it stared to get lighter, we looked up at the top and thought, “NO WAY”.  Afterall, the whole point is to see the sunrise and then were were told to walk down at 5:30am no matter where we were on the mountain.  We would have just made it to the top at 5:30.  So, instead we walked up the next station (about 1380 feet below the summit) and waited for the sun to rise.  It was beautiful to see the sun come up above the blanket of clouds that were below us.  At this point we were 11,550 feet (over 2 miles) up in the air.  But it was freezing, and we were exhausted!  4 hours sleep the night before, 9 hours on a bus, 10 hours hiking straight up (including 90 minutes sleeping next to feet) can do that to a person!  So, as cheerfully as we could, we said “Let’s go home!”  But we had to hike down…

If I thought the way up was bad, the way down killed me.  It was a different trail, no big rocks, just steepish switchbacks all the way down.  It was the kind of loose rock gravel that is so easy to slip on when going downhill.  Somehow, I, the UN-queen of grace, managed not to fall. We must have zigged and zagged 100 times before we saw the last zag go around the mountain towards the destination.  “Hooray!” we thought as we rounded the bend only to see the trail stretch on endlessly.  “Hooray” we though as we rounded a bend again 20 minutes later.  This time we were greeted with the only sign on the trail telling us we had over a mile left to go…

Have you ever done so much exercise your legs shake uncontrollably when you stop?  My legs were doing this at the first zig, by the end they were shaking with every step.

After 4 hours of continuous walking (with brief breaks of course) we made it back.  It was one of the most difficult things I’ve ever done, perhaps THE most difficult since I can’t think of anything more so at the moment.  [I can now – and that is giving birth to children.]  I’m glad I did it, it was an “experience” but I will never, EVER do it again.

And that, in a nutshell, is my hike up Mt. Fuji.


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